Protecting Skin of Color in Aesthetic Medicine: A Call for Better Education and Patient Safety
Last year, the aesthetic medicine community witnessed a conversation that should have happened decades ago. Influencer and model Bunny Bowden (@jl.bunny), a Black woman, shared a tearful account on social media of her traumatic experience with an Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) treatment that left her with third-degree burns. Despite informing the provider during the procedure that the treatment felt too hot, her concerns were dismissed, resulting in severe burns all over her body. Bowden's story ignited a firestorm of similar testimonials from individuals of color who had experienced comparable injuries at the hands of inadequately trained providers. While her physical scars have begun to heal, the mental and emotional aftermath continues, a reality shared by countless others whose stories remain untold. Her case was not an isolated incident. It was a public reckoning with a pervasive issue in the aesthetic industry: the dangerous gap in training, caution, and understanding when it comes to treating diverse skin tones with energy-based devices like IPL. While it should be common knowledge that IPL poses significant risks for darker skin types due to the high likelihood of burns and hyperpigmentation, the number of reported cases suggests otherwise. More concerning is that some of these treatments are performed by unlicensed or inadequately trained individuals, leading to preventable injuries. This raises the urgent question: What steps can the aesthetic medicine community take to ensure the safety of persons of color?
By Ginille Brown, FNP-C
Understanding the Risks for Skin of Color
The physiology of skin of color is distinct, with higher melanin content that absorbs light energy more readily than lighter skin tones. IPL devices emit broad-spectrum light that targets pigment in the skin, making darker skin types particularly vulnerable to burns and hyperpigmentation. Despite these risks, misinformation or lack of awareness persists among both practitioners and patients, leading to unsafe treatments.
How Do We Do Better?
1. Mandatory Training in Skin of Color: Aesthetic medicine professionals, regardless of their background, must undergo comprehensive training in treating skin of color. This should include understanding the unique characteristics of melanated skin, identifying suitable treatments, and knowing which procedures, like IPL, pose unacceptable risks. Incorporating skin of color dermatology into certification requirements can ensure practitioners are well-equipped to treat a diverse patient population safely.
2. Strict Licensing and Regulations: We must advocate for stricter regulations requiring that only licensed, trained medical professionals perform treatments like IPL. States and countries should enforce guidelines that mandate specific certifications for practitioners using energy-based devices. Untrained and unlicensed individuals performing IPL treatments must face stricter penalties, as this practice poses serious harm to patients.
3. Safe Treatment Alternatives: Educating providers and patients about safe alternatives to IPL is crucial. Treatments such as Nd:YAG lasers and radiofrequency devices are often more appropriate for darker skin tones, minimizing the risk of burns and pigmentation changes. Highlighting these options can steer patients away from potentially harmful procedures and encourage providers to use the most appropriate technologies.
4. Educating Patients: Patients need to be informed about which treatments are safe for their skin type. Providers can empower patients by discussing the potential risks of certain procedures during consultations. Informing patients about what questions to ask and warning signs to watch for when seeking treatments will help them make safer choices.
5. Using Social Media for Education: Social media is a powerful tool that can be harnessed to educate a broader audience. Many healthcare providers are hesitant to use these platforms, but it is a space where we can directly impact patient safety. Providers can share information about safe treatment options for skin of color, debunk myths, and explain why certain procedures like IPL are not recommended. While social media may feel outside the comfort zone for some, it offers a unique opportunity to reach those who may not have access to in-person consultations or professional advice. By sharing expertise online, we can help prevent injuries and foster a more informed patient community.
6. Building a Network of Trustworthy Providers: The community of providers trained and experienced in treating skin of color must be made visible and accessible to patients. Creating directories or networks of specialists in skin of color dermatology and aesthetic medicine can help patients find qualified professionals. Similarly, patient advocacy groups and professional organizations can provide guidance on choosing safe, effective treatments.
The aesthetic medicine community must take responsibility for educating both providers and patients about the unique needs of skin of color. Addressing this issue requires a multi-faceted approach: improving provider training, regulating who can perform certain treatments, educating patients, and utilizing social media platforms to spread awareness. We must also advocate for accountability measures to prevent unqualified individuals from administering high-risk treatments.
Bunny Bowden's story is a sobering reminder that misinformation, lack of training, and unregulated practices can have severe consequences. By taking proactive steps to address these issues, we can protect patients, improve outcomes, and build trust within communities of color. Through collective effort, we can foster a more inclusive and safer environment in aesthetic medicine, where every patient receives the high standard of care they deserve.
About the Author
Ginille Brown, FNP-C, is a Board-Certified Family Nurse Practitioner and the founder of Ginille Beauty Aesthetics, a luxury medical aesthetics practice with locations in Los Angeles and Torrance, California. Ginille completed her undergraduate education at Stanford University and earned her nursing credentials from Duke University School of Nursing. She has been specializing in aesthetic medicine since 2013, offering expert services in neuromodulators (Botox, Dysport, Xeomin) and dermal fillers (Juvederm, Restylane, Radiesse, Sculptra), with a focus on treating diverse skin tones.
Ginille is a recognized voice in aesthetic medicine, particularly for her expertise in treating skin of color. She has been featured in major publications, including TODAY, Essence, Refinery29, Byrdie, and The Zoe Report, and has appeared on the Chiquis and Chill podcast and Black Girls Texting podcast to discuss the unique considerations for people of color seeking cosmetic treatments. She has also contributed expert commentary to Spectrum News on the importance of diversity in the aesthetics industry.
Her mission is to empower clients by enhancing their natural beauty through personalized, evidence-based care. Ginille emphasizes education and transparency in every consultation, ensuring clients feel informed, comfortable, and confident in their aesthetic journey. She is passionate about advocating for patient safety, proper provider training, and ethical standards in aesthetic medicine, particularly when treating melanated skin.
Learn more about Ginille and her practice at ginillebeauty.com or follow her work on social media for educational content on safe, inclusive aesthetic care.
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